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This marks squash season and most anticipated season, not least for all the spiced dishes and other hearty meals of fall. This Rajasthani stir-fry is a regular in my kitchen, and the blend of ginger, chili and palm sugar gives it a lovely balance of flavour. The biryani, on the other hand, is loaded with whole spices, long-grain rice and ghee, which provide enhanced flavour to the strata of grains and produce.

Mushroom and Squash Biryani

A celebration of curry dishes starts on October 6, so how perfect to mark the occasion than with a flavorful, comforting, all-in-one-pot biryani? For convenience, make the spiced vegetable mixture element ahead of time and layer all components on the day you plan to eat.

Prep 20 min
Cooking 2 hr
Yields 4

For the vegetable curry base
4 tbsp ghee, or butter
1 tsp cumin seeds
2 dried bay leaves
4 cloves
450g white onions, peeled and thinly sliced
3 green bird's eye chillies, lengthwise slit
5cm piece fresh ginger, julienned
2 tbsp tomato puree
¼ tsp mild chilli powder, or kashmiri chilli powder
1 tsp ground turmeric
2 tsp coriander powder
1 heaped tbsp greek yoghurt
300g butternut squash flesh, cut into bite-sized pieces
300g button mushrooms, trimmed and sliced
400ml vegetable stock, or use water
Salt, as needed
2 tbsp chopped coriander, for serving

Rice preparation
200g basmati rice
2 bay leaves
4 green cardamom pods
A pinch of salt

For the biryani
2 tbsp melted ghee
1 pinch saffron threads, soaked in 3 tbsp warm water
1¼cm piece fresh ginger, peeled and cut into matchsticks
3 tbsp finely chopped fresh mint leaves
1 tsp ground cardamom powder
1 tsp garam masala
Raita and salad, as accompaniments

First make the curry base. Melt the clarified butter in a sizable, thick-bottomed pot on a medium heat, add the cumin seeds, bay leaves and clove spices, and fry for a brief moment. Add the sliced onion and cook, frequently turning, for 30-35 minutes, until softened. When the onions start to brown, remove half to a separate dish and reserve (for later use during the layering).

Introduce the green chillies and ginger to the remaining onions, cook for a brief period, then stir in the tomato puree, chilli powder, turmeric powder and coriander, and fry for a minute. Turn down to a low heat, stir in the yoghurt and simmer for two minutes.

Add the squash and mushrooms, toss to cover in the spice mixture, then cook for several minutes. Add the liquid, and season to taste. Heat until boiling, then lower the temperature, place lid and simmer for 18-20 minutes, mixing midway to ensure nothing's stuck to the bottom of the pan. Garnish with fresh cilantro, then remove from the stove.

Preheat the oven to 200C (180C fan)/390F/gas 6. Wash the rice, then place it in a pot with a quart of water and the bay leaves, cardamom pods and seasoning. Heat to boiling, simmer for around ten minutes, until three-quarters cooked, then strain.

For assembling the biryani, put a tablespoon of warmed ghee in a oven-safe dish for which you have a secure cover. Ladle in half the spiced vegetables, then layer with half the rice. Sprinkle a portion the saffron water, ginger strips, mint leaves, cardamom powder and spice blend, then add the caramelized onions. Layer with the remaining curry mixture, then spoon on the remaining grains. Top with the rest of ghee, saffron water, ginger, mint, cardamom powder and garam masala.

Cover with baking paper, place lid securely, then bake on the center rack of the oven for about fifteen minutes, so all the flavours soak into the rice. Take out of the oven, leave to rest, keeping covered, for several minutes, then remove the cover and present with yogurt sauce and salad.

Rajasthani Achari Kaddu (Squash with Pickling Spices Stir-Fry)

The Indian word "pickling style" describes seasoning a dish using pickling spices, and the mix includes mustard seeds, fennel, fenugreek, cumin, hing and kalonji, but they're not used only in preserved foods. This mixture also appears in all manner of spiced dishes and sautéed preparations, like this recipe.

Prep 10 min
Cook 30 min
Yields 4

1 tsp black mustard seeds
½ tsp fenugreek seeds
1 tsp fennel seeds
4 tbsp vegetable oil
1 pinch asafoetida
5cm piece fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped
750g squash flesh, or pumpkin, cubed
1 tsp mild chilli powder
½ tsp ground turmeric
Salt, to taste
1 tbsp jaggery, or dark brown sugar
2 tsp dried mango powder

Put the mustard, fenugreek and fennel seeds in a spice grinder, crush coarsely, then reserve. Heat the oil in a large frying pan or kadhai on a moderate flame. Introduce the crushed spices and the hing, and fry, mixing, for a brief moment. Add the ginger, fry for a short while, then add the pumpkin pieces, chilli and turmeric, and sauté, stirring, for five minutes more.

Add 50ml water to the pot, season with salt to taste and heat until bubbling. Place lid, turn down the heat, and simmer for 20 minutes, mixing midway through. Mix in the palm sugar, breaking up chunks a little, then incorporate the mango powder, mix thoroughly and present hot with flatbreads or leavened bread.